Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.
The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.
Rashid Al-Mansoori is a tech journalist with over a decade of experience covering innovations and digital transformations in the Middle East.
